Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Sunday, November 03, 2024

How Power Shoulders Tell a Story of This Campaign

OPINION : GUEST ESSAY

THE NEW YORK TIMES: In terms of personality and policy, Kamala Harris and Donald Trump are starkly contrasting figures. Yet they’ve often had one thing in common: a silhouette that features powerfully padded shoulders.

For 150 years, the size of a suit jacket’s shoulder pad — which exists today as a small, simple, triangular shaped piece of material stuffed with wadding — has fluctuated in response to fashion trends. But in this year’s election, the power shoulder has become a potent, multifaceted symbol.

The complex history of the power shoulder means it can convey confidence, power and authority. But it can also conjure swagger, playful subversion and an outsider’s defiance of an established order.

For both candidates, this strong silhouette offers the opportunity to shape a defining image: for Mr. Trump, as a billionaire who positions himself as anti-establishment; for Ms. Harris, as a formidable figure who more than belongs in a realm once reserved for men.

That may seem like a lot of meaning to put on a pair of shoulder pads — but the power shoulder can bear it. » | Derek Guy | Mr. Guy is a fashion industry commentator and the editor of Die, Workwear!, a men's wear blog. | Sunday, November 3, 2024

Friday, February 16, 2024

Is Smoking Stylish Again? Experts Sound Alarm as Cigarettes Become a Trend on NYFW Runways

NEW YORK POST: This is a real drag.

Despite years of campaigning against big tobacco, it seems that cigarettes are reclaiming their chic status à la Kate Moss, appearing as accessories on New York Fashion Week runways in the wake of the “mob wife” aesthetic and an early aughts “indie sleaze” revival.

This week, multiple models meandered down the Christian Cowan catwalk with a cigarette teetering between their fingers in a collection depicting the elevated glamour of the rich housewife. Then, just days later, a model wearing a deep-cut power suit dangled a dart from her hand on LaQuan Smith’s runway, oozing corporate sex appeal with garments that doubled as both boardroom and club wear, an ode to “office sirens,”he said.

The Post reached out to reps for Cowan and Smith for comment as to why they included cigs on the runway but Retrofête’s creative director Ohad Seroya said cigarettes played a “big part” in his designs crafted for the “alpha woman.”

He debuted a collection at The Plaza Hotel last weekend, showcasing red hot power suits, slinky evening gowns and luxurious fur coats reminiscent of a chain-smoking, “Mad Men” persona — with one model in particular in a navy power suit adorned with wisps of smoke.

Seroya told The Post that the powerful woman theme was, in part, inspired by his “strong” mother, who was a smoker. And while the designer said he’s a former smoker, he made it clear that he did not support the habit, but rather, appreciated the human “connection” of a smoke break.

“When you come to somebody and [are] asking for a lighter and creating a conversation with you outside,” said Seroya. “And this is why I miss smoking.” » | Brooke Kato and Brooke Steinberg | Friday, February 16, 2024

Eat your heart out, Rishi! The habit you love to hate is making a comeback in stylish circles. Well, well! Who would have thought?

Neither you nor any other politician will ever manage to stop people smoking. The pleasure is far too great and the allure of a handsome gentleman/beautiful lady smoking a cigarette far too sexy to stamp out.

The prohibition of alcohol was tried in the States in years gone by; between 1920 and 1933, to be precise. But the Prohibition didn’t work out too well, did it? So the silly law had to be repealed. A prohibition on smoking will not work out very well either. Silly laws like that are tried by greenhorns in politics who understand little about human behaviour.

If you are wise, Mr Sunak, you’ll abandon the idea of an incremental smoking ban. It’s a dumb idea which is bound to fail. If you really want to help children in the UK in 2024, make sure their parents get enough money to put quality food on the table to be able to provide their children with the nutrition they need for healthy development (without having to go to food banks). Make sure they have access to well-qualified NHS dentists when their teeth need attention — most parents cannot afford private dentistry. Make sure they have quick access to good, well-qualified doctors when they are sick. And, very importantly, make sure that children have access to good schools. Education is key to social mobility. Most parents do not earn enough to send their children to top, private, élite schools, affordable only to the über-privileged few; instead, they have to rely on state provision for their children. Until relatively recently, they could.

These are the things which will help children grow up to be fine, upright and healthy citizens, not some authoritarian, idealistic, un-Conservative, undemocratic, unpoliceable smoking ban which will deny future generations the pleasure of smoking (if they so wish to take up the habit), and take their democratic rights away from them. Nevertheless, it will still enable them to indulge in all manner of dreadful substances which are far, far worse for their long-term health. – © Mark Alexander

Sunday, December 31, 2023

The 1920s

When the beautiful cloche was fashionable.

With many thanks to Claire Windsor for this delightful photo.

Period Music: Don’t Bring LuLu.

Saturday, December 16, 2023

Saturday, September 09, 2023

Coco Chanel Exhibition Reveals Fashion Designer Was Part of French Resistance

THE GUARDIAN: Previously unseen documents to go on display at V&A alongside evidence of her collusion with Nazis

New evidence from official records show Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was a documented member of the French resistance during WW2. Photograph: Hulton Deutsch/Corbis/Getty Images

A major retrospective of Coco Chanel has unearthed evidence that the fashion designer was a documented member of the French resistance. The previously unseen documents will go on display, along with contradictory evidence that she operated as a Nazi agent.

The documents relating to Chanel’s activities in wartime Paris strike a serious note within what is likely to be the most glamorous exhibition of the year, with more than 50 tweed suits – including a bubblegum pink set belonging to Lauren Bacall – on view at Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, when it opens at the V&A in London on 16 September.

“We couldn’t do a show about Chanel and not address her wartime record,” said the curator, Oriole Cullen, who has expanded a show first created at the Palais Galliera in Paris in 2020 with a new curation that delves more deeply into Chanel’s links with Britain as well as her wartime activities. » | Jess Cartner-Morley | Saturday, September 9, 2023

Tuesday, August 08, 2023

The Eight Coco Chanel Creations That Changed How Women Dress

THE TELEGRAPH: She was controversial, but became one of the most successful fashion designers of all time thanks to her revolutionary ideas

Chanel in 1936 | CREDIT: Lipnitzki

One of the most challenging aspects for anyone assessing Coco Chanel’s long, productive life is how slippery its facts are. Coco’s genius for all things aesthetic extended to her own past. She couldn’t resist tidying it up. ‘If only you’d stop lying,’ Boy Capel, the first of her wealthy English lovers, once remonstrated with her. (A bit rich coming from a serial adulterer, but still.)

The work, however, doesn’t lie. Chic, revolutionary, original, liberating and instantly recognisable, so much of what Coco Chanel designed in the 1920s, ’30s, ’50s, ’60s and ’70s is still not only relevant, but driving other designers today. Iterations of her bouclé tweed jackets are currently lodged in hundreds of other labels, from high street to haute. Ditto pumps with contrasting coloured tips, extravagant faux-pearl jewels, quilted bags… The list goes on. » | Lisa Armstrong, Head of Fashion | Monday, August 7, 2023

Thursday, July 06, 2023

Saudi Designer Mohammed Ashi Makes History as First Gulf Arab at Paris Haute Couture Week | AN

Jul 6, 2023 | Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi, founder of Paris-based label Ashi Studio, showcased his latest line on the official Haute Couture calendar in Paris on Thursday, becoming the first designer from the Gulf to join the hallowed ranks of couture designers who are featured at the event.

Saturday, June 03, 2023

Neunzehnhundertzweiundsechzig

Nineteen sixty-two / Dix-neuf soixante-deux

Man bedankt sich dafür bei BIG HAIR 1962 auf Pinterest für dieses schöne Bild benutzen zu dürfen.

Wednesday, May 24, 2023

Sehr elegant in Schwarz

Très élégant en noir / Very elegant in black

Ich bedanke mich bei IvyRio auf Pinterest für dieses unglaublich schöne Bild.

IvyRio.

Wednesday, May 03, 2023

Vogue Cover, Portugal, 2019

Frederico Martins Captures Jessie Bloemendaal for Vogue Portugal — Anne of Carversville / Model Jessie Bioemendaal is styled by Nelly Goncalves in glam sophistication fashion shoot by Frederico Martins for Vogue Portugal October 2019.

My thanks for this super, elegant photo go to Anne of Carversville on Pinterest.

Tuesday, May 02, 2023

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012 – Ready-to-Wear Collection: A Look Redolent of the Roaring 20s

Un look qui rappelle les années folles / Ein Look, der an die Roaring 20s erinnert

Many thanks to Vogue Magazine for this elegant photo.

Thursday, April 20, 2023

Haute Couture by Jacques Fath, Paris 1950

A white tailored alpaca dress by Jacques Fath in 1950. Photo by Georges Saad.

Many thanks to flickr.com on Pinterest for this reminder of 1950s elegance.

WIKIPEDIA: Jacques Fath.

Monday, April 17, 2023

Simple. Elegant. Attractive. Stylish.

Simple. Élégant. Attractif. Élégant. / Einfach. Elegant. Attraktiv. Stilvoll.

Many thanks to Divine Living Magazine on Pinterest for this very appealing and stylish image from the 'Roaring 20s'.

Thursday, April 13, 2023

Spring Has Sprung

Der Frühling hat begonnen / Le printemps a surgit

Many thanks to Kim Dave on Pinterest for this photo, taken from the Yves Saint Laurent spring collection 2001.

Mary Quant, British Fashion Revolutionary, Dies at 93

THE NEW YORK TIMES: As a designer, clad in her signature play clothes and boots, with huge painted eyes, fake freckles and a distinctive bob, she epitomized the style of London’s Swinging Sixties.

Mary Quant at work in London in 1963. Her boutique in the heart of Chelsea was filled with “a bouillabaisse of clothes and accessories.” | Associated Press

Mary Quant, the British designer who revolutionized fashion and epitomized the style of the Swinging Sixties, a playful, youthful ethos that sprang from the streets, not a Paris atelier, died on Thursday at her home in Surrey, in southern England. Known as the mother of the miniskirt, she was 93.

Her family announced the death in a statement given to the Press Association of Britain, saying that she had died “peacefully.”

England was emerging from its postwar privations when, in 1955, Ms. Quant and her aristocratic boyfriend, Alexander Plunket Greene, both just out of art school, opened a boutique called Bazaar on London’s King’s Road, in the heart of Chelsea. Ms. Quant filled it with the outfits that she and her bohemian friends were wearing, “a bouillabaisse of clothes and accessories,” as she wrote in an autobiography, “Quant on Quant” (1966) — short flared skirts and pinafores, knee socks and tights, funky jewelry and berets in all colors.

Young women at the time were turning their backs on the corseted shapes of their mothers, with their nipped waists and ship’s-prow chests — the shape of Dior, which had dominated since 1947. They disdained the uniform of the establishment — the signifiers of class and age telegraphed by the lacquered helmets of hair, the twin sets and heels, and the matchy-matchy accessories — the model for which was typically in her 30s, not a young gamine like Ms. Quant. » | Penelope Green | Thursday, April 13, 2023

Fashion designer Dame Mary Quant dies aged 93: Family says she was ‘an outstanding innovator of the Swinging Sixties’ and died peacefully at home »


Equal parts practical and daring: how Mary Quant created look for a new way of living: Swinging 60s icon brought a sense of female liberty to her designs »

LESEN SIE AUCH:

Sie brachte den Frauen Beinfreiheit: In einer Zeit, in der Frauen noch keine Hosen trugen, war der Minirock eine Befreiung. Nun ist seine Erfinderin Mary Quant im Alter von 93 Jahren gestorben. »

LIRE AUSSI :

Mary Quant, la créatrice qui a popularisé la minijupe, est morte : Avec sa jupe raccourcie dévoilant les jambes des jeunes filles, les couleurs vives et les tissus légers ou innovants de ses collections, elle a insufflé dans les années 1960 un vent de légèreté dans le monde de la mode. Elle est décédée le 13 avril, à l’âge de 93 ans. »

Wednesday, April 12, 2023

Elegant in Schwarz

Elegant in black / Elégant en noir

Für dieses schöne Bild bedanke ich mich bei Lina Henriques auf Pinterest.

Tuesday, January 17, 2023

Reputations: Coco Chanel | BBC Documentary

Mar 18, 2019 | This is a documentary about Chanel's life and legacy. @ 35:57, it includes an interview with Karl Lagerfeld about the first appearance of the Chanel suit.

Some sound clips are missing because YouTube automatically strips out copyrighted music/soundtracks and this also strips out narration.

This documentary goes into detail about how Chanel reinvented herself because of a simple misspelling of her name at a childhood convent.


Thursday, December 29, 2022

Vivienne Westwood: Pioneering Fashion Designer Dies Aged 81

REUTERS

BBC: British fashion designer Dame Vivienne Westwood has died aged 81.

In a statement on Twitter, her fashion house said she died "peacefully and surrounded" by her family in Clapham, south London.

Westwood made her name with her controversial punk and new wave styles in the 1970s and went on to dress some of the biggest names in fashion.

Her husband and creative partner Andreas Kronthaler said: "I will continue with Vivienne in my heart.

"We have been working until the end and she has given me plenty of things to get on with." » | Andre Rhoden-Paul, BBC News | Thursday, December 29, 2022

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD’S OBITUARY:

Dame Vivienne Westwood obituary: Fashion designer who from punk origins created an international brand with a dissident edge »